Welcome to GAB (Girls for the Advancement of Beer). Spreading the love of Craft Beer through Knowledge and Education.

Let’s talk about Brett, baby.

July 8, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Let’s talk about all the good things and the bad things. That’s easy when it comes to Brett. Although I tend to favor the good.

We’ve all known someone who shares traits similar to Brett. You know the type; mysterious, captivating, funky, kinda smelly, yet strangely attractive. And dangerous, very dangerous. I guess it’s just human nature to desire the experience that comes with Brett.

But then again, is Brett dangerous? Or just misunderstood?

The Dangerous Type

No, we’re not talking about Brett Michaels at the height of the Hair Band craze (although it appears he’s just as dangerous today in the form of a VH1 reality star). We are talking about none other than Brettanomyces. The name alone strikes fear into the hearts of some brewers and vintners. So what is this fearsome creature?

INfamous is when you're more than famous. Brett is not just famous, it's INfamous.

Brettanomyces is a wild yeast strain. It’s used primarily in Belgian and Belgian-style beers, and has been steadily gaining popularity in American craft beer. Brett produces characteristics that are often described as “horsey”, “horse-blanket”, “goaty”, “barnyard-ish”, “cheesey”, “wet doggy”, and even “sweat socks.”

Barnyard? Goats? Not usually synonymous with delicious.

If that doesn’t sound like your idea of delicious, you may be wondering why in the name of all things that are good in beer would brewers actually utilize such a thing.

In fact, many of them don’t. Like some bacteria, Brett’s presence in a beer or wine could be interpreted as a flaw. It can even infect some of the equipment that is used to create the beer or wine and it is incredibly difficult to eradicate, which is why so many beer and wine makers stay as far away as possible.  

No matter how much scrubbing one does, Brett isn't likely to go anywhere...

When used carefully and properly though, much like the bacteria we discussed last time, Brett can add depth and complexity to a finished brew, complete with totally unique flavors that range from rich and earthy to spicy, mildly fruity and leathery. Also, because the flavors take time to develop, Brett beers are perfect candidates for aging.

At such a concept I’ve heard some of my wine drinking friends scoff. “Cellar a beer?” they say. “Rubbish! What ever for?”

Stop the Beer/Wine Snobbery!

I then tell them to turn their noses back down, take a good look through their monocle and behold the beauty of craft beer. This is the kind of snobbery that perpetuates the barrier between wine and beer drinkers (and it goes both ways – I’m talking to the beer snobs out there too!). Tear down the wall, I say! There’s room for both beverages to be appreciated, dammit! But I digress . . .

If you ever encounter such a question you can answer that certain beers, like those brewed with a Brett strain, will age gracefully just like, dare I say it – a fine wine. The Brett character in these beers will change and develop over a year or two when stored properly (in a dark spot where the temperature doesn’t stray too far from a 55-65 degree margin).

Some breweries recommend a cellaring time. If you have the option (and more than one bottle), try the beer when you get it and then again after some aging and note the difference in the flavors and aromas. But we can talk more about aging practices another time.

My "cellar" is actually a closet. Not quite this fancy...

You can find Brett beers much more readily today than in the past. As we discussed with sour beers, the “funky” flavors delivered by Brett, Pedio, and Lacto have become something of a phenomenon. Something important to remember, though, is that NOT ALL BRETT BEERS ARE SOUR.

So if you’re taste buds are turned off by tartness, it doesn’t mean you have to write Brett off as well. It works well within the confines of a sour concoction, but while Brett can sometimes bring a tad bit of a tang, it’s not primarily the flavor you’ll get from it. Many Belgian-style saisons, quadruples and others are made with Brett, without any sourness to speak of.

Now, after reading this, you may not be entirely sold on the idea of Brett, but I’m willing to bet that you’re intrigued. You’ll find yourself thinking about Brett and wondering what it would be like. . .

I highly recommend that you give in to the temptation and dance with the devil. Walk on the wild side. Embrace the danger. I think you’re going to love it.

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